The Slappy World of Noma
- Kristina Cassar Dowling

- Mar 13
- 3 min read
Up until a couple of weeks ago, this was going to be a very different piece of content. Recent news on foul play at Noma has cast a dark, dark light on the institution that revolutionised the understanding of so many aspects within the F&B industry. Noma was a landmark — a standard of culinary pinnacle.
So… in a nutshell… Redzepi was accused of a cascade of bad behaviour in the kitchen, which by the looks of it, is all quite legit. I mean there’s been a lot of talk about this; to the extent of which top-tier news portal journalists took to their keyboards to document the drama. Shit hit the fan, Redzepi published a formal apology on Noma’s social media and just this week, resigned from his post (not the organisation).
Redzepi announces; “the running of this restaurant… for now… will sit with you guys” meaning the brigade of kitchen staff, the front of house — from high rank to low rank… senza ‘Zepi.
Talk about big boots to fill. In a restaurant of this calibre, you need a big boss. And all this as they march on to their LA project. I bloody hate bad news.
Why couldn’t you just not stab people with bbq tongs, humiliate them in circles of shame or punch them in the ribs?
Why couldn’t you have just focused on the food?
In Redzepi’s A Work in Progress Anthony Bourdain calls this guy, “without a doubt, the most influential, provocative, and important chef in the world.”
Which was true in 2013 and remains true in 2026. They opened in 2003, got their first star in 2005, their 2nd in 2007. In 2018 the original Noma is closed, and Noma 2.0 opens in Holmen. In 2021 Noma received the highest accolade from Michelin; 3 whole stars. The red stamp of approval was not enough glory though, Redzepi also snatched the No.1 spot for The World’s Best Restaurant in 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014 and 2021. Noma 3.0 was marketed just at the start of 2026, tables sold out in 3 minutes and now... all this malarky.
I spoke to a few local Chefs about this and they didn’t exactly deny witnessing ‘not-so-nice’ things in kitchens throughout their careers. It’s a sad norm that was acceptable in the past, and in my opinion was very much glamorised by the media; Hell’s Kitchen in particular. Throughout the 00s and 10s we thought this shit was funny; but someone shouting at you and calling you an “idiot sandwich” as your daily-work-reality kinda sucks. It’s kinda harassment, it’s kinda not OK at all.

Oh ‘Zepi, I really wanted to write about the inspiration you bring to the kitchen industry. How your revolutionary work pushed boundaries and edged on the periphery of madness. ‘Mad’ translates to ‘food’ in Norwegian; coincidence… I think not.
Did this guy go crazy with the pressures of the kitchen, and the pressures he put on himself? Or was he mad from the start, his staff subjects of his tomfoolery?
But it’s not tomfoolery. These are not shenanigans picked up by some stupid teens having a macho competition, this is actual people and their actual lives and dreams (and their families, their sacrifices, their uprooting). It’s not a joke. I mean, the fact that “Noma starts paying interns” is a headline in 2022 is ridiculous, no?
I didn’t want this piece to be the first I authored on prickly prose, y’all know I prefer a happy story, but news is news. And sometimes we need to react.
Redzepi states that he will be planning the next phases. My gut feeling is that we’re going to wait for all this to fade into memory and we’ll see an entirely new Noma emerge. What will happen with Noma 3.0… hmm, tricky situation… do you not go if you’ve already booked? Do you refuse to go just to make a point?
The take away from this: don’t be a bully. Bullies always lose.

