“This dish was inspired by the forest floor. Nature is one of my biggest inspirations.”
Speaking to Chef Brincat is always a learning moment. His kitchen is immaculate, his mise en place overly accurate and his brigade eager yet structured. Interactions with Jonathan Brincat are usually sprinkled with awe and respect: honesty as a major thread.
My honest opinion is that Chef Jonathan Brincat will be known as a Master of Malta’s Culinary Heritage for years to come, future generations looking back to understand his methods and approaches; his Jerusalem artichoke pasta is one dish that adds to this legacy; and NONI’s Catalogue Entry No.1.
The Story
This dish was created in the Winter of 2025, where an overseas forest painted the perfect picture for a pasta dish.
This dish is 90% local with imported bold ingredients needed to capture the woodiness of the forest inspiring the creation; including black truffle and dried porcini for umami and raspberry vinegar for acidity and vibrancy. The visual colour palate, the aroma and the flavour of this dish fully emulate a thriving forest floor.
Using a mandoline as his primary tool in the process of this dish, texture and bite is controlled with both the mushrooms and the Jerusalem artichokes used in the dish–with hot and cold temperature plays giving the dish a more dynamic feel.
Chef Brincat’s principles in the kitchen are formulated around full extraction of flavour, with hero ingredients in the dish fully integrating with other elements on the plate that add depth and structure to the composition.
This vegetarian course demonstrates Chef Jonathan Brincat’s artistry in the kitchen, pairing technique and flavour for a bold and unctuous Jerusalem artichoke pasta dish; serving as NONI’s first entry into The bajtra Catalogue.
Tasting Notes
While there are multiple techniques used in the creation of the consommé, the foam, the pickling, the pasta making - this is a simply presented dish with complex roots; and even more complex flavour. The main achievement here is the balance of an inherently savoury-earthy dish; pushing sweet, umami and tangy tones with every spoonful.
