Hooked 🎣 The Tartarun Conversion

I’ll start this off in the most honest way possible, a fact that even Chef James Schiavone learned about me (post-meal)... I love most shellfish, I can eat local rossi any day but… I’m not the biggest fan of seafood. Gasp, shock, horror… a culinary consultant who doesn’t enjoy fish dishes? Blasphemy. Sacrilege. Heresy. 

Well, at least I’m honest. 

But… perhaps, this next claim will help you understand how undeniably delicious Tartarun is: Chef Schiavone, I will eat any fish dish you prepare, I will understand its flavours and I will appreciate technique. But most importantly, I will undoubtedly enjoy it because Tartarun is, hands-down, the best seafood restaurant in Malta and Gozo. 

You might be wondering how I can possibly say that with my predisposed dislike towards fish; and of course your concerns are right. As Nina, Chef James and his twin Stephen and I shared a bottle of exquisite wine, late into the night after the restaurant doors shut, I shared this dreaded fact with the brothers… their heads rapidly spun round (exorcist-style… but less the green goo), “X’inhu?” they exclaimed in unison. 

The fact is that I eat fish, I enjoy it most times and the unfortunate truth is that I often dislike it in restaurants; especially when it’s prepared sous vide and slapped on your plate (literally don’t do this Chefs, it’s not pleasant). Now if you’ve learned to read between the lines, you’ll understand that these restaurants I am calling out are mention-worthy, acclaimed restaurants who would even own a sous-vide machine; but still their fish dishes do not deliver… to my palate at least. 

The difference at Tartarun is simple. They are sea people, they are generational lovers of the sea’s offerings and they keep things simple while pushing the boundaries of obscurity and allowing their guests to develop their palates and experiences in their restaurant 🌊

Let’s take the katsu fish burger with vadouvan curry and green ketchup or the buttermilk-fried bream with buffalo sauce as an example. As a diner, these are the dishes that scare me — because they’re so far away from the typical al cartoccio. As a culinary observer, these are the dishes that intrigue me — because wow, what creativity and dedication. 

The buttermilk-fried bream is as close to fish goujon perfection as you’ll ever get. The batter is light, airy and crispy with enough salt and no greasy residue from the deep fry, making it the perfect first bite of your fish snack. The delicate, smooth, creamy yet in-tact filet of fish steams as you bite into it, making you wish you ordered more this for the night. Perhaps the most addictive part of the experience is the strings of colourful sauces that dress the three-bite snack. (I emphasise that it’s three bites, so you might be enticed to order more than one per person, it’s worth it, trust me). 

What’s my point…

Well it’s simple… Tartarun, specifically Chef Schiavone, creates a menu where the sceptical fish-eater can be completely turned around. This is not about flattery, ain’t nobody got time for that… this is about recognition and exploration. And maybe a little bit of acceptance and openness. 

A visit to the iconic Marsaxlokk Tartarun will open your mind to how fish can be handled, treated and prepared on local shores. The Tartarun experience does not start when you enter the restaurant's newly-refurbished doors, it started when Joseph, the twin’s father, instilled a love for the sea through his fishing culture. 

This simplicity speaks to my soul. But it's only a fraction of the mastery Tartatun's kitchen produces.

Here are some other reasons why I love Tartarun and will recommend it wholeheartedly to any diner: 1. Stephen will welcome you kindly yet professionally, knowing you’re up for something serious in the experience department; 2. Stephen will also bring you glass, after glass of delicious wines, if you allow him to show off his curated wine list; 3. James will do his thing and whip up some oddly creative dishes that even a resister of fish would thoroughly enjoy (me), 4. hang out long enough and the twins will entertain you with joyous banter when the restaurant closes its doors; 5. simply being in Marsaxlokk late in the day just hits differently; 6. you get into your taxi with a slight buzz, a light stomach and a full heart, because damn… that was so wholesome; 7. you’ve got so much to talk about the next day, whether reminiscing with your dining guests or at your next social gathering. 

This is the Tartarun curse. Try it once and like their daily catch, you’re hooked. .