Dear Risette, you're a Constellation 🌟

Do you know why I do what I do? Let’s take a short trip to the 00s; a young vegetarian, stumbling upon academic setback, found themselves glued to the family TV, entirely fascinated by any production airing on The Food Network; food became an obsession. Fast forward 15 years or so later; food is my life, my career, and luckily still my obsession. I am here to relive that ‘glued’ experience of wanting to consume every detail with admiration, respect and that longing to be impressed. 

Risette absolutely always impresses. 

Risette fascinates me because there’s harmony. There’s harmony in the way Chef Steve prepares his menu and develops his technique and flavours–seriously, I’ve watched this guy’s ability and results grow in a 1.5 year span, to a drastic degree. And the thing is that Steve listens and asks, he is driven by a goal/dream/destiny of attaining Michelin Star status, to which he has so far only received Michelin Mention. 

I have quite a few opinions about the Malta Michelin Guide, primarily the Michelin Mentions, which I think can be divided into 2 separate groups - but anyway... Chef Steve, is as chefy as they come. The drive for perfection is deeply rooted into his fingertips, the very ones that peel each garlic clove and plate each pasta envelope. You’re pretty darn close to perfect in my eyes pal. Time is on our side. ⭐⭐⭐

Now since we’ve just mentioned Chef Steve Scicluna, let’s talk about him for a while. He’s absolutely making his mark on the culinary scene here in Malta; and it’s not that he’s reinventing the wheel, he’s just putting it together in a way that makes the most sense for your gustatory receptors. Thanks Steve, that’s all I will say. Thank you. 

A fun example of this Steve-stamp is his smoked eel beignet, light and delicate but fried up wonderfully; dipped in sugo nero for a touch of sweetness to contrast the nutty, smokey, meaty eel; yet sparked with a zest of lemon gel for freshness.

Hi, I want you. Now. Pls.

Some of the showstoppers I have so graciously enjoyed at Risette include Chef Steve’s pasta in any way shape or form. The in-house pasta is deliciously thin, elastic and savoury with a generally smooth, creamy or luscious inside–sometimes even an exploding/popping sensation–and the most fragrant, buttery, deep, earthy and rich sauce covering every fold in the agnolotti, ravioli or any shape Steve fancies. Gosh darn it they’re good. 

The crust on his pan-fried fish is also beyond words delicious. And when he slaps on a thin layer of his house-made brioche to dub as a crispy skin… unreal. (This is why you shouldn’t sous-vide fish chefs, you want, scratch that, you need a crispy skin… every single time.) 

The last thing, that always gets me with Chef Steve, which leaves me with the impending question as to why only Malta Michelin Mention status… is his sauces. Not 1, but 2, sometimes an extra gel or condiment, maybe a relish. Where’s the Star man? 

You’re a constellation Steve. Remember what I told you that day. 

Regular patrons are lucky to have such attentive Front of House staff, like Lester, who remembers your table, whether you prefer still or sparkling and if you’re more inclined to go for Tasting or A La Carte Menu. You just feel special without that eerie feeling of intrusion, you’re doing it right Risette. 

Another factor that is really important in the culinary history of Malta & Gozo is Matthew Ellul’s attention to and appreciation of wine. The wine pairing at Risette is special, boy does Matt know the menu, understand what Chef Steve is doing in his kitchen and boy does he make sure that every glass paired is as unique and balanced as the food you are eating. I must have tried some of my most favourite wines here at Risette, in fact Matthew (as well as the late Austin Xerri) encouraged me to sit for my Award in Wines of the Maltese Islands at ITS, giving me so much insight to a vital complimentary part of fine dining. 

But how about I tell you the time, my good friend Jonathan, my wife Nina and I headed to Risette to celebrate the night together. We opted for a tasting menu, as you do, carte blanche in fact, do whatever you want Chef Steve, we’ll eat it. Sure Matt, we’ll have a wine pairing–and the cocktails to open the meal (and x2 double Jura each to finish). 

I’ll tell you this, about 1 course away from the pre-dessert; the wine (read; cocktails, wine, oh… did I mention we had mezcal at Ginscal a few minutes before arriving at Casa Ellul) got to me and I had to step outside for a minute. Jonathan and Nina are staring and thinking, how is she coming back in here? 

Well, friends, when you’re a professional… you get some fresh air, you shake it off–you stop the alcohol–and you head back in; making sure to tell your friends to let the kitchen know the table needs a short pause, because that’s the way it should be…

… but also dear readers, if you know there’s Chef Steve’s Rabbit and Langoustine next up on your Tasting Menu, you pull yourself together and get.back.in.there. STAT! For the boneless rabbit with langoustine foam, gurl I would do many things. There’s no way you can miss that dish. Hate rabbit? Try it. Hate langoustine? Try it. Hate them both? Try it! I hated eel before I met Chef Steve, and his amuse bouche is high up there in my top 3 local amuse bouche, trust me, Risette is magic. 

(Also, get a cab home, because that's also the way it should be.)