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UnderGrainStreet; I'll have both ✌️

  • Writer: Kristina Cassar Dowling
    Kristina Cassar Dowling
  • Oct 7
  • 3 min read
pasta dish with truffles at undergrain

We all think we know Chef Victor Borg. We think that his airtime on MasterChef Malta is our understanding of him. When them chefs giggle while he’s laying down the law, I cringe… cos girl, it’s not funny. This is serious business and every aspiring chef worth their salt will understand that the realities of a kitchen are a million times harder than the highly anticipated Kitchen Takeover. 


Guilty, I’m a MasterChef fan, not a superfan, but just a fan. I’m a superfan of the local version by all means, just to clarify, I’ve not missed a second of the show since Season 1. And quite frankly, the push and urgency that Chef Borg inflicts on his students is mild compared to the pressures of an actual kitchen, so all you trolls thinking he’s a big meanie, maybe you don’t quite understand the show. 


The first time I met Chef Victor Borg, we sat for an interview. I have my ways of doing things, which usually stems from the ‘I know nothing, tell me everything’ perspective. As I started asking my questions, Chef Borg said; “inti ma ġejtx preparata” (you didn’t come here prepared), to which my reply was, “I don’t care what other people say about you, I want to know what you say about you.” Not gonna lie, his stern look and rightful apprehension perked me right up, this guy means business. Always. 

sharing main dishes at grain street in valletta

When a mentor is giving you their time, you best be prepared, it’s not about the simple respect of it all, it’s about the fact that these guys are busy, they’ve got better things to do than sit around and watch you fumble. My carte blanche attitude in conducting an interview is just my style, and within 20-whole-seconds Victor understood and accepted that. I appreciate that Chef. 


Another part of learning a Chef’s story is tasting their food. And Chef Victor’s food story can be tapped into both at Under Grain and Grain Street, housed atop each other in Valletta. Both an exceptional experience but entirely different expectations. 


Perhaps, realistically you will visit Grain Street more often than Under Grain… it’s open for lunch and dinner, it’s a Bib Gourmand which I think is a gateway accolade to discover excellence, and it’s absolutely delicious. Chef please never take away the crispy pigs ears off the menu. They should be handed out constantly in public spaces; a little bit of crispy pork will make everyone happier. Maybe this is the solution to eternal happiness? 


Grain Street is built on the idea of sharing, although it is not a compulsory table requirement, which means you can taste pretty much everything on the menu over a couple of visits or immediately with a larger group of friends. The relaxed atmosphere of Merchant Street’s vibrant energy, encourages you to sit and stay longer but even if you are in a rush during your lunch break this sort of excellence is still available with an express luncheon. I think that’s pretty cool. 


snacks from grainstreet

Under Grain requires an empty stomach and a stern goal to mangia, mangia, mangia. I was almost defeated by the Tasting Menu here. Please note, that no matter how full I am, I will, 99.9% of the time, clean my plate. I never want any Chef to think I found a problem with the food. If there was a problem, I would mention it directly, because at bajtra we are honest and consistent; and I feel that’s only fair. 


This is kind of like the Augustus Gloop syndrome most of us gluttons have. You want it all, but honey we’re out of room. 


Perhaps the most important thing about Under Grain’s menu is that it’s been years in the making. Chef Victor Borg accumulates his knowledge, understanding and discovery of his kitchen, having started his professional hand at the culinary arts from the age of 15, his palate and sense of Chef have obviously matured with experience.


And every dish from the agnolotti to the dark chocolate mousse cake both at Under Grain to the TV-famous lasagne nero at Grain Street, allows you to understand why Chef Victor Borg is a master. 




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