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Same Noni, Different Time Zone

  • Writer: Kristina Cassar Dowling
    Kristina Cassar Dowling
  • Mar 16
  • 3 min read

Throughout the passage of our lives connections are made. Food is a big connector and when you’re a Chef with the props and chops like Jonathan Brincat, the opportunity to connect spreads far and wide; like a glossy pour of freshly thickened jus. 


Chef Jonathan Brincat in his kitchen

This March, takes Chef Jonathan Brincat way across the pond to Australia, and as we know; quite the herd of Maltese flocked to the Land Down Under in hopes of better opportunities post WW2 stricken Malta resulting in the largest Maltese diaspora globally. 


Brincat’s first stop will be Sydney where a Four Hands Dinner will take place at LuMi Dining. Chef Federico Zanellato and Chef Jonathan Brincat merge for one night; melding their love for the sea and their respect for the craft into one homogenous menu. Here Chef Brincat demonstrates the connections food collaborations can bring. 


This Visit Malta event is focused on exporting the finest quality of Maltese food heritage to a platform of international tasters; enticing their palates to explore the integrity and authenticity of our islands’ cuisine. 


But the big event takes place across the bay, specifically at the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival where Noni’s Chef Brincat will be the first local Chef to play the field. 


In the Summer of 2025, Noni’s Chef Patron welcomed the production team of Shane Delia’s Malta into his temple. Delia is a generational product of Maltese Australian; a breed that grew up with this ‘Malta’ in their vocabulary. His visit to our islands inspired connection; one that even resulted in a Maltese takeover of his Melbourne restaurant Maha. The takeover is by none other than the restaurant, the man… Noni. 


Cartoon Kristina admiring Noni

“We are showcasing what Malta has to offer, what our talent is and how we imprint on the world food scene. Noni is traditional. It’s culture. We’re going to bring the way we eat, and the way we do dinner to Australia.” Chef Brincat hopes to bring nostalgic memories for the Maltese Australians while introducing Malta’s food heritage to the rest of the diners during the takeover. 


Approaching a takeover, as a Maltese Chef, with Maltese flavours, is a complex voyage. While the Melbourne audience of diners is accustomed to high calibre restaurants, the exploration of Noni x Maha poses a simple question: are you already connected to Maltese cuisine or will this be your first encounter… through Noni?


Experiencing your first representation of Maltese cuisine through an event-curated menu via Chef Brincat is quite the introduction; with must-have local olive oil and wines from Malta’s boutique wineries to compliment the dinner. Non-negotiables flown in to ensure a complete experience. But what does a Noni experience actually mean? 


Noni's Kawlata dish

When dining at Noni in Valletta, diners understand a signature that is purely Maltese, rooted in flavour, seasonality and memory — transformed into a modern interpretation of technique, experience and more memory; new memory. The mission at Maha is to relay that passion and love for Malta’s cuisines through Noni’s interpretation of fine dining, ultimately urging guests; Maltese Australian or not; to visit the Maltese archipelago. 


Knowing Maltese food as an Australian, can go either way; it can either be as casual as Twistees and Kinnie or as elaborate as nanna’s kawlata – a pork and vegetable stew that has been rejuvenated by Noni and is generally available as a signature dish on the Valletta Tasting Menu. 


“We always try to exceed the expectations of everyone. It’s cooking… it’s food, so what we are doing here [at Noni], we are going to try to replicate with Australian ingredients, while using the same cooking methods, same ethos and the same approach to our menu.”


For both lovers of Maltese food and rookies in the realm of Mediterranean flavour, the experience of Noni is one of a kind.


And if you’ve never visited Noni, as Chef always says; “there’s still time”. 

visit malta logo in white
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