The Malta Michelin Mention Syndrome

As we all know by now, the Michelin 2026 Awards were announced on the 17th of February; we waited by our MacBooks, we refreshed our iPhones numerous times until some indication of an update was available. And once we got some movement, bajtra began to filter through the list, checking for any changes; new gains, losses, retention, shifts – finally confirming our name game with the officially published MICHELIN Guide Malta 2026.

We congratulated the Chefs we follow, admire, have met, want to work with and celebrated their success.

But what sat with us for a long time is that dreaded Michelin Guide Recommendation List.

It’s sad to say, and I mean absolutely no offence by it, but the Mention list doesn’t really make sense here locally.

I’m not really sure it was ever accurate from the start. 

Why?

Primarily because there are certain restaurants that, in comparison to the standards of both local 1 Star and the local Recommended restaurants, things just do not tally. Biting my tongue on a miss of standards usually comes from being respectful, but quite frankly my respect is mostly deserved by the Chefs who are absolutely killing it and deserve a bit more common sense when it comes to ranking. 

I hate ranking. When I graduated in History of Art in Malta, our then Head of Department Keith Sciberras told us we’d forever be badgered with the question; “who’s your favourite artist?” or “what do you think of this artwork?”

I guess it’s exactly the same for restaurants when you’re a food critic. “What’s your favourite restaurant?” “Where can I get a good [insert any given dish/cuisine/ingredient]?” 

Which is fair enough, actually it’s exactly what we want… people to gain access to informed choices. Right?

On the surface, yes, exactly that.

But of course, this could be a lengthy, very deep and very serious conversation; depending on what you really want. 

Because what I find the major problem I personally face when posed with this sort of question is that this whole thing of dining out is such a personal experience and what you are actually asking is, “where do you think I will enjoy?”, however… what do you enjoy? It’s so much more than just a menu; anyone can publish a menu on their socials, it’s just advertising at that stage — making it a free-for-all depending on perceived taste, budget, location and whatever. 

But the one thing that a menu does not highlight is the passion you’re reserving your meal for. Apart from the fact that you pay for that passion, you also get to experience it. It becomes your moment; asking someone to choose that moment for you is very, very touchy. 

I don’t have a favourite. I don’t rank. I choose for the moment. And I feel that the Michelin Recommendation lists distorts that information. 

We’re quite vocal about the fact that we don’t necessarily agree with certain restaurants even being part of the red book club. Because this red book club was supposed to be special, sacred, covetable. 

The industry’s comments of “hmmm… I’m not sure I agree with…”, travels across all of Malta’s Michelin tiers. Some comments are genuine, some comments are competitive and most comments are flowered with a few bouts of foul language – all of which are understandable, justifiable and ultimately honest. 

I was never into badmouthing. I think it’s low and abrupt. But I do believe in celebration. And to be clear, this is not out of fear of falling out with any restaurant. It’s about what I know and what I think as a food critic. I’d rather just not mention the restaurants I do not think fit the bill, than justify why I don’t like them.  

So here are the 2026 restaurants we are proud of for being on the Michelin Man’s Recommended team (in absolutely no particular order): 

The ones I did not mention don’t hit the mark for me personally. The ones I have visited in the past; have deteriorated in quality (in every aspect) over time; a level of quality that I would never have thought Michelin would recognise as their standard. There was one restaurant where I left hungry (and appalled). And a hand-full that I have no interest in visiting because buying a white tablecloth and caviar for the menu does not make a fine dining restaurant, let alone a Michelin one.

I might have to visit them all one day… just to complete the puzzle… but that would be one of the first times I’m working for bajtra without joy in my heart. I’ll delay those visits as long as I can. 

Again… what’s the point of all this? To get you thinking if you’re not thinking about what you’re investing your time, your money and your meal on. Every restaurant dining experience should be a celebration, it’s a revival of your being. Wouldn’t you be absolutely annoyed if you came to the sudden realisation that some 20 minutes down the road there was an Earth-shaking meal with your name on it for (maybe) a few bucks more? Same red plaque on the door.

If you disagree with this brain dump; let’s chat. If you think we’ve forgotten you, reach out. If you think you’re on my no-go list and that I stand to be corrected; give us a shout. Just remember we will be honest. 

Oh, by the way. The Bib Gourmand selection; don’t get me started on that.