de Mondion Tasting Experience

Let’s start with some context. 

Dining at de Mondion or even visiting The Xara Palace was always a big deal. Mainly because the entire experience, from the moment you step into the main door’s sight, an attentive eye meets yours; with a synchronised smile initiating the evening. 

From this moment on, you do nothing but experience the moment(s). This is the de Mondion standard.

The first time I dined at de Mondion, I felt intimidated, not going to lie. The first time I dine in most restaurants that I admire, I feel this anticipation and think, “I hope we do them justice.” This feeling will never leave me. I care too much. 

But for this visit I was calm. I knew what to expect and that I would be delighted. I believe all de Mondion guests leave heavily delighted. The whole package is seamless and effortless; it’s also very human. 

There’s no secrets here. 

I show up for the food; it’s my reason for being – and Chef Clint Grech’s food strengthens that ‘reason for being’. I am so honoured I can instantly recognise anything that comes out of his and Gabriel Caruana’s kitchen. My rolodex of flavour is forever challenged through Chefs of this calibre; of which we have a good number locally. 

The journey at de Mondion started with the kitchen’s signature aperitivos. Your first bite, might be your best: the classic Comté-filled Parmesan sable, a light gel to cut the richness – through which you get nutty biscuit notes, luscious depth from the creamy inside and heaps of happiness. 

• 

  comte sable at de mondion

• 

  pomme dauphine at de mondion

• 

  foie and beetroot tart at de mondion

Keeping in the Comté region, a Morteau filled pomme dauphine, its light exterior crowned with a dashi gel and potato crisp. This one-bite wonder somehow felt inherently Maltese; but its contents are far from it. Delicious.

A splash of Cassar de Malte, 2025, carried both snacks extremely well. Bouncing floral and fruity notes with the biscuity tones in the sable and the savoury notes of the Morteau. As discussed with sommelier Miljan Radonjic; I don’t quite know what could compliment the foie and beetroot bonbon. 

It’s just so iconic. 

I think it needs to stand alone. 

Honestly I relish every moment I see that glistening ball and wee tartlet. 

But remember that the purpose of bubbles at the beginning of a meal is to cleanse the palate, the snacks intended to open the appetite and introduce the signature flavours. 

The bread course followed with its signature popcorn-flavoured aroma and crust. There’s no popcorn here folks, but somehow de Mondion makes you believe there is; it could be just me, and I’m so content with that reality. Brittany butter and Xara Gardens olive oil – equally delicious. 

Disclaimer: the tasting menu was not ‘new’ to me in the realm of my understanding of de Mondion’s repertoire. In some way, form or version I have seen components of these dishes, from this kitchen, in various interpretations. I am humbled to have such a collection of this restaurant’s food memories in my arsenal. Reliving a dish is a test of separating what I already know from how it makes me feel at that moment. It’s all relevant. 

A New Zealand wine via Austrian heritage, Misty Cove Landmark Marlborough Grüner Veltliner 2024, delivering a herbaceous and metallic sweet note. So interesting; but it needs to be studied. Miljan is very good at keeping me on my toes, introducing me to new blends and odd winemaking techniques. Every pairing was insightful throughout the night; I generally learn a lot about viticulture when I’m in his presence. 

Let’s get down to the real stuff now. The first course: A Tribute to the Mediterranean. 

My third time trying this dish, kind of. Because it’s never quite the same. This version brought both previous renditions together; and elevated the 4 month-old dish. My version 3 saw a red prawn carpaccio dressed in clementine oil; the pronounced flavour of this segment; topped with a heap of Sturia French caviar and a herbaceous dot of soft herb crema. To the right, a gloriously-textured blue fin tuna with a lemon-forward dressing. A thick tomato water and basil oil merging the two dishes. 

• 

• 

Conceptually, yes, this dish makes sense. Texturally, the turgid tuna rises victorious against the prawn (which I have purist respect towards), the citrus notes fuse harmoniously and the tomato and basil accents give this a hugely local vibe. Somehow this dish was also buttery and rich but light and refreshing. Ma nafx, very clever. 

Do we need the caviar though? It added a delicious saltiness and a robust iodized note, that the dish doesn’t need but elevates it to a whole different tier. Not because it’s caviar because that specific textural and saline note absolutely works here. And when paired with the Grüner Veltliner, a trompe l’oleil experience, merging wine and food excellently. 

Our next wine was also mindfully paired; with the adventurous tone of de Mondion’s sommelier. A Provence, Château de Pibarnon - Bandol Rosé 2024, carrying cherry notes and a cranberry finish at the back of the throat; resulting in a tart and smooth assist to the Leeks ‘en Papillote’. 

A masterfully constructed dish that is mostly vegetarian. The vegetarian dish is most times the star for me. Here I am so happy that it was almost a veggie dish because: bacon. Alsace bacon. So minute in detail, but so effective. Especially since the Scamorza bianca that draped the entire dish gave a smokey overtone that when paired with the bacon delivered a sort of xikel tal-majjal (pork shank) character. 

• 

• 

The dish though, is a leek dish. The comment on my notebook near the leeks read, and I quote, “MF good”. Tender, buttery, packed with flavour and the star of the dish nonetheless. A romesco sauce added depth, a hidden celeriac surprise with earthy and rooty energy and because all this wonderfulness is somehow not enough… a bitter and astringent garnish of leaves from Renni’s Garden. 

Another comment on my notebook; in caps and taking up 5 lines for emphasis: SCARPETTA. I never do this, not even at home. But that last hunk of bread and the lusciously moreish romesco and scaramoza pool I ended up with on my plate were in my destiny. I had to have them. 

This dish brought colour to my tastebuds. Painting outside the line with absolute purpose. 

The pasta course followed, cappelletti filled with oxtail served with a touch of XO and a velvety yeast sauce that clings onto the thin pasta folds with a heavy and dense thickness. Ahh, yes, truffles. Heaps of truffle shavings working so well with this umami, nutty, toasty, creamy, robust… I think you get my point… dish. 

• 

• 

Usually I find the pasta dish the least amusing. This was like a superboss version of a comfort pasta you want to eat when you need to be happy again. The way your lips and tongue need to pay attention to the textures, the depth of flavour and the aroma. Aroma is so important in this dish - and it’s magnified with the XO. Wooof. It’s a small spoonful, but it’s mighty. 

Paired with an equally aromatic 2020 Schloss Johannisberg - Gelblack Riesling Trocken that smells of talcum and someone I love so very much, instantly making me happy. On the palate, precisely the edges and tip of the tongue the acidity, accurate for the richness of the dish. 

We follow with my December visit’s tax-xewk moment (you may have noticed I haven’t selected one for this August experience yet); the Local Seabass à la Plancha. This time with brassicas in the form of cauliflower and hispi cabbage; we’ll talk about the cabbage shortly; and an elegant smoked pike roe bernaise. 

• 

• 

The fish, like last time, was exceptional. Flesh, skin, kollox. The bernaise, liquid velvet and not overly pikey. I hesitantly tried the smoked pike roe off a spoon in Chef’s kitchen; I’m such a wimp with smoked fish; but of course, I was offered and I obliged. And I’m grateful: this is a testament that quality makes a HUGE difference. 

So much power in such a small pop. 

Hit me. I’ll take another bump. 

And another glass of that Belondrade y Lurton Rueda, 2022 French and Spanish hybrid. Just delicious. 

The cabbage was miraculous. A shroud of chargrilled hispi cabbage leaf and a bed of Asian-inspired cabbage slaw. My gosh, I do hope I’m right about the Asian influence here. It’s not the usual flavour profile I’d associate with Chef Grech. 

Regardless, the cabbage was the star here, and that’s saying something because the fish was delicious and the bernaise flawless. But that cabbage man, surprising and unexpected. Maybe that’s what impacted me so much. 

The last savoury portion featured a classic de Mondion game dish: pigeon. Served with a stunning glass of red; tobacco notes, and a ripe dark fruit flavour. The sharpness of the Bodegas LAN Reserva, 2018, keeping you alert as the symphony of fireworks in the distance gives the evening its local charm. 

• 

• 

Where were we, ahhh… pigeon. 

Prepared en farci with chicken mousse, tarragon and morels, which also accompany the dish as a stuffed version. The cross-sectioned breast, pink in the middle, is finished with a tableside pigeon-carcass jus that glistens as it hits the plate; sticky, rich and very umami. 

Hmmm, just 1 sauce. As if. A Noirmoutier pepper sauce steals the spotlight and luckily is touching everything. Yay. It’s creamy and cheesy and deserves an award.

As a side, a pigeon leg confit brioche with a touch of warm spices in the delicate filling that played so well with the  Bodegas. The saffron aioli and Alsace bacon, melting provocatively, a gluttonous act of textural wowness. 

The fireworks continued, and so did the nostalgia. A pre-dessert called Childhood Memories. Version three for me, if my memory serves me well. Delectat yoghurt; a signature stretchy version and a freeze-dried version for crunch. A citrus chew and chamomile gel texturally dressing this cute dish as well as its hidden surprise. Not new to me, but just as exciting, some popping candy. This deserves another… YAY! 

• 

• 

• 

Dessert followed with perhaps the most impressive pairing of the night, a 2017 Argyros Vinsanto 4 Years Barrel Aged (yes, 2017 and just released). Notes of raisin, coffee, toffee and sweet oak. This white grape is so oxidized, its wine is literally light-soy-brown in colour. 

Closing with chocolate is unavoidable for Chef Clint. His usual Tarte Ambroise homage was switched out for our table. While it’s in no way the same as the tarte, this brownie dish carried so much of the same character. 

Chef Clint came to our table at this point, we discussed the dessert. I thought it was delicious, his perfectionism unsoothed. And I appreciate that, because the dish was not perfect in his eyes yet.

It was delicious, the tuile on top (whose secret ingredient, I will never share), the brownie texture, flavour, consistency, density — magic. The caramel between the tuile and brownie; just enough, plus… there was a slight saltiness to the brownies segment of this course; and I loved it. 

A roasted vanilla ice cream, he thought overpowers the dish. I can understand why, but wasn’t offended by it. And a buckwheat crema that is, at the very least, angelic. Flavour-wise here is the tax-xewk moment. Roll with that flavour Chef, it’s so magical. 

Pause. 

There is no way we can pin a tax-xewk moment at de Mondion to a tablespoon of buckwheat crema.

Ma tarax.

Because quite honestly, it was a tax-xewk experience.

Every dish gave me life.

So it was a multiple tax-xewk moment kinda night… no dramatic climax, constant and persistence impact. 

In no particular order:

1. Every single wine pairing. 

2. Comté sable

3. Foie & beetroot

4. Citrus & herbs in Tribute to the Mediterranean Sea

5. Every strand of leek

6. The yeast sauce (Cappelletti) 

7. The cabbage on the seabass dish

8. The pepper sauce with the pigeon

9. The entirety of the pre-desert

10. The buckwheat crema

And just to carry through to Petit Fours.

11. The verbena & cherry combo

12. The tartness of the nectarine as your last bite. 

What else can I say?

Grazzi for the tax-xewk rollercoaster.