Under Grain Tasting Experience

Honest critiques for restaurants such as Under Grain need to be handled two-fold. 1) take note of everything, Chefs like Victor Borg expect that their patrons are having a flawless experience; noting even the tiniest loose thread improves seamlessness 2) remember that you are also a guest; and that the experience is everything. And always remember that honesty is key, because my truth is always rooted in genuinity. 

“We’re booked under bajtra”; the first time I said that – and what a place to start; Under Grain. Anticipation can deceive. I’ve anticipated revisiting Under Grain with zealous glee; knowing that Chef Victor’s bold flavours and intense drive of umami will fit the appliqué of plating, decor and concept of the restaurant. Everything is curated with intention; including the cascading perfume of fresh flowers; their pollen making a gentle appearance throughout the course of the meal. 

Scents play a large role in restaurants, and at Under Grain this voile of fragrance compliments the aromas of the kitchen, for the most part. A heated and scented hand-towel is presented to you upon arrival; you’ll be using your hands for the Snacks, so surely this should be a more common practice. A nice touch, but perhaps rosewater could be a more fitting scent that ties in to the end of the meal. 

Methodically placed before you: four pedestals with daintily embroidered bites escalating in flavour from tartness in the ġbejna, earthiness from the smoked cheddar briquette, sweetness in the mille feuille climaxing with umami in the final Snack from the Kitchen. The gastronomy begins.

Next, a small wooden vessel sparks intrigue. It starts with a story, a key factor in the Art of Service. Piquing interest, showing playfulness and allowing the guest to feel like part of the journey…

… you look into the seemingly empty wooden cup, there’s a drop of oil. Hmm. Until…

… a steaming teapot flows the greenest pour through its spout; the aroma of freshly cut grass, and the lifting of the oils from your cup… little oil bubbles start to appear on the surface… 

… appreciate everything, notice everything…

“… and for umami,” he says, “an oyster foam…”

… more theatre, but all with purpose. 

The oil, oyster and herbs are texturally astounding, with long sips giving you the full experience of flavour, ‘bite’ and viscosity. To add to the playfulness, you’re also invited to guess the herbs in the amuse bouche. I missed one; I’ll brush up on that Chef.

When great Chefs are documented, the personification of their façade translates as leader, captain, general. But running a smooth brigade is not the only goal of a kitchen; we also have to remember the story. And as already established, some Chefs are artists; they get inspired by memories; old and new. Like childhood picnics in Buskett Woodlands. 

Or indoor picnics at Under Grain. Fun, jovial and clearly distinguishable as a Maltese picnic with common staples elevated to in-house baked, cured, pressed and churned goods – metamorphosed into the most intentional Bread Course I have ever experienced. 

Focus. This is special… especially if you grew up with Buskett picnics. This grown-up rendition with a swirl of 2024 Chilean Kaiken Estate Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon blend.

Mussels, passion fruit and gorgonzola dolce

A signature dish of Chef Borg’s is his Mussels, Passion Fruit and Gorgonzola Dolce with an optional add on of Sturia Oscietra 'Prestige' Caviar. We tried this with the caviar, however, in all honesty, the calibre of the dish without the caviar stands so boldly, it’s not a requirement, only a very welcome touch of luxury, salinity and texture. Luxury, salinity, texture; further refined with an MLF-heavy Catena Alta Chardonnay. 

This dish is the masterpiece of the night, a tax-xewk moment within a tax-xewk experience. Ease into the creamy, viscous and high-minerality custard, the robustness of gorgonzola dolce in all its impact contrasted with the texture, flavour and ionic properties of the mussel. Chef Victor Borg states that he tastes a dish in his mind before he makes it. 

How did your mind taste this Chef? Bold. And so damn good. 

The accompanying salad relives the experience; and while curiosity tempts you to lift the veil of passion fruit gel; refrain. Keep it whole, keep it sacred, eat it in one bite, close your eyes and live the moment. Remember it. 

A pasta course follows after a lull in service, perhaps through the perception of anticipation and after three chilled glasses of whites, a little too long a pause for some to hold the rhythm. Worth the wait: experience a Roscoff onion-filled agnolotti dish with a balance of sweetness and earthiness through the date and the meatiness and decadent texture of the onion filling. 

The beurre blanc sticks to your lips while the buffalo milk foam adds a lightness. This pasta course most of all celebrates balance. Through playful creativity, Chef Borg allows himself to explore beyond the expected. 

French Guinea fowl, zucchini, macaroni gratin, parsley root purée

Transition to red with a 2021 Château Héritage Fusion from the Bekaa Valley in Lebanon that adds just enough attitude to compliment a delicious dish based on the ideologies of sustainability and honouring the animal’s sacrifice. Oven-cooked, low and slow on the carcass, a French guinea fowl breast is extracted, pan fried and finished on the yakitori grill - an Under Grain staple - with an umami rich anchovy-based glaze; presenting you with a textural phenomenon that, I humbly admit, words cannot describe. 

The guinea fowl carcass is utilised for the (once again, and note the consistency) umami-rich jus that owes its texture to the dedication of process, technique and respect for produce. The jus trails the dish like tapestry gently adding depth and flow; further exciting the palate with a dainty zucchini flower, filled with confit guinea fowl leg that adds richness to the dish.

A small macaroni morsel accompanies this presentation. And while I find every other element on this dish flawless, this component, albeit entirely flavourful, didn’t quite marry with the rest of the menu, in my opinion. I’d love to retry this particular element, understand it and see your point of view with a clean palate Chef. Ċempilli. 

With the satisfaction of savoury under your belt, the sweeter part of the experience begins with an ice-cream pre-dessert topped with frozen brown butter shavings and frozen lime zest and a dessert course of…

Valrhona dark chocolate mousse cake, Mġarr raspberries, Buffalo milk ice cream

… crunchy, nutty, buttery, sticky… brandy snap tuile that cracks like glass in your mouth. And that’s just the garnish. 

Chef Victor’s inspiration from the iconic Ferrero Rocher takes on the persona of a cake, layered with some sort of magic, a chocolate coating textured with… perhaps hazelnuts, and a tang from the light buffalo milk and local Mġarr raspberries. I won’t steal anymore of this moment from you.

As we sat, and mindfully ate our pretty petit fours, finishing with a light and refreshing note of rosewater; we watched the little mannequin lights hit the tables of patrons whose journey at Under Grain ended moments before ours. 

Chef Victor Borg is a bajtra hero. The journey that critic and Chef embark on is sacred and only works when respect is mutual. I feel privileged, and sometimes awestruck, by the fact that my professional journey through the Art of Critiquing and the Art of Cataloguing will be nurtured and mentored by Chef Victor Borg at Under Grain.